![]() ![]() On most modern chargers, you'll need to put a discharged battery in the charger before you can provide any current to the tool. A knot can be tied in the cord, or tie wraps added to be tightened later to prevent the cord from pulling out and straining the soldered connections.You'll need something for the other end of the DC-carrying extension cord to attach to, and this something will be an AC outlet connected to the charger.Įasy way to do this: run some aluminum foil or a wire to the point of connection between battery leads and charger. Thread the wire into the hose and thread both through the hole. Silicone caulk, Friendly Plastic or Fimo might also work.ĭrill a hole that the hose will fit through in the base of the case. If your cells are not usable, or the case is a different shape, you might be able to carve a block of wood that fits the case and can hold the contact plates. This leaves two dead cells, that hopefully are not too nasty and corroded, that fit into the "tower" that have the contact plates attached. ![]() Remove the thermal sensor, the small metal thing tucked between the cells that is wired to the third contact plate(or leave it in if it isn't in the way). Take them down to your local Radio Shack and make them throw them away. Rechargeable and button batteries should be disposed at authorized battery collection sites. Clip off the lower cells that fill up the main body. Open up one of the batteries and extract the cell assembly. (I am an expert on confusion and can supply references) It is a good idea to mark the polarity with tape or a sharpie to prevent confusion. Worse case is if there is a diode that prevents it from working at all. If you get it wrong, it will probably still work but the direction switch will work backward. If your battery pack has any capacity at all, you can read the polarity with an electrical tester. Fortunately mine was marked on the outside of the case. You will be promptly awarded 16.4 million dollars after sending the appropriate handling fees to his PO Box in Nigeria.) Step 1: Parts and Toolsĭetermine the polarity of the contact plates. If you have problems with my instructions, drill a hole through your hand, set your hair on fire or burn down your house, all correspondence regarding these issues should be made to my attorney. It is a good idea to mark the ends of the base and top of the case to prevent confusion. If your drill is a higher voltage, I don't know of any simple way to provide a higher voltage.Īt every step of the wiring, it is a good idea to check the wiring with a continuity tester or ohmmeter to determine that the connections are complete and that there are no opens or shorts.īefore chopping, cutting, drilling, examine the components to determine the best path for the wires. Putting a resistor in line is the simplest way. If you want to do this with a drill that is less than 12 volts, you will have to determine a way to drop the voltage to a safe level. You will have to open it up and engineer it to hold the contact plates firmly in place with the wires attached. Some of them may be harder or easier than mine. This battery case was fairly easy to convert. I intend to rebuild two of the batteries with new NiMH cells eventually, but for now, I decided that as long as it is a 12 volt drill, it can run from a 12 volt battery pack, of which I have several. At that point, I ended up with three dead batteries and a really nice drill that I couldn't use. I bought one new one for $50 or so, which has since died. About eight years ago, the battery packs started to die. I got a lot of good use out of it over the years. It came with a charger, steel carrying case and two nicad battery packs. Convert a cordless drill to plug into a 12 volt battery pack when your battery packs die.Ībout twenty years ago, I sprang for a state of the art, best that money could buy, a Porter Cable 12 volt cordless drill. ![]()
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